"This isn't a tourist town", the blond mine manager told Che during the stopover on his epic motor cycle trip half a century ago. It is said that Che's revolutionary spirit was born after his eye-opening visit to Chuquicamata, the world's largest open pit copper mine and until today an important source of income for the Chilean economy (accounting for almost one-third of all foreign trade).
That mine manager would turn over in his grave if only he knew that nowadays some 40'000 tourists flock to Chuquicamata annually. Admittedly, there is not much more to Calama - where we find ourselves stranded for a couple of days - than its mines. Yet, big is our surprise when we end up on the waiting list for a guided tour. Even more determined now to visit Calama's only major sight, we are very excited when, thirty nerve-wrecking minutes later, we ultimately receive green light for our visit the same day (believe it or not, apart from Pepe's misfortune, our travel karma is pretty awesome!).
Security helmets and safety instructions have no more secrets for us, or at least that is what we think after having geared up in ditto outfits about once a week recently (be it for riding the death road or walking in the footsteps of dinosaurs). But Chile is not Bolivia, which becomes immediately apparent as we are instructed to even wear our helmets while seated on the bus... (!)
"Chuqui" does not turn us into stand-up revolutionaries, though wandering through the empty streets of the remaining ghost town definitely leaves a lasting impression (about ten years ago all miner families were relocated to Calama for safety reasons). Inspired by our visit, that same evening, we finally watch the classic Motorcycle Diaries.
And while Pepe is still waiting for transport to Santiago (after the first attempt failed), we can only feel the utmost sympathy for Che's motorcycle companion, Alberto Granado, when he sighs:
“Che, you told me we would enter Chile like two conquerors. Not on foot like a pair of losers. ”
